Krka, Trogir, Hvar

Between Zadar and Split is another waterfall park, Krkr, and its’ absolutely stunning.

We were glad we made this stop as it was along our route, but didn’t have as much publicity as Plitvice.

If you only had time for one or the other, you could choose either and be happy. 

These waterfalls cut their own path, changing course frequently, evidenced by areas of green foliage with water running over it and toward the nearest cliff. 

Boardwalk paths lead you through the main park loop, similar to Plitvice.

You can take a ferry ride to other waterfalls, but those were 3-4 hour excursions.

It’s beautiful terrain and on warm days you can swim in the water, but we are having a cold snap!

After Krkr, we visited Trogir, recommended by Ibrahim, one of our NYC doormen.

The Old City is meandering narrow streets and alleys, built in cream limestone filled with architectural eye candy. The pizza was top notch. (We’re just a hop, skip and a boat crossing from Italy after all.)

Something new I learned about Brent is he loves the architecture of old churches.

I was oblivious to the ticket taker sitting behind a table and got to see these panels up close and personal.

Then, on to Split and our awaiting cruise ship,

The Symphony!

The trip was organized by Michelle and three of her closest friends from clear back when they were all newlyweds living in Mountain View and the Los Altos ward.

They reached out to their friends and put together a group of 15 couples.

Everyone is so friendly and working very hard to learn everyone’s names.

 

Plitvice National Park, Croatia

Plitvice Lakes National Park is a gorgeous with its turquoise lakes and majestic waterfalls.

A boardwalk path leads you through the park and across the water, quite literally.

Because the minerals in the water create limestone and travertine, the lake bottoms are rock instead of silt and therefore crystal clear instead of muddy. 

On the way to the park, our driver told us about fighting in the Croatian/bosnian war. He was our age. 

In 1991 when Dan and I were looking forward to marriage, college graduation, new jobs and everything life has to offer, our driver was a soldier. 

He said he lost five classmates in one day. 

But he also said that even in war life goes on. 

He said some of his most precious life moments happened during the war. 

I’ll be thinking about that idea for a while. 

We’re enjoying one on one time with Michelle and Brent. We haven’t traveled with just them in years.

Possibly since Hawaii 25 years ago!

We began at Entrance one and followed a modified “C” path, thanks to the instruction of Rick Steves.

We saw all of the lower lakes and after ferrying to the upper lakes, walked through half of that part of the park, before stopping for lunch at a fancy steak restaurant within the park which gave Dan the meat and calories he wanted, but also had a delicious cucumber and tomato salad  and roasted veggies the rest of us were looking for. It was perfect.

It was so fun discovering a new place together.

Zadar was a two-hour drive to and from the park and while we heard the bus was an easy way to travel, we appreciated having a private driver who could take us home at our leisure and eliminated extra planning—especially having only arrived the night before and dealing with jet lag.

Once back in Zadar and Dan had an hour of downtime (the rest of us got a snooze on the car ride home, but Dan had the front seat leg room, but also had to keep up a conversation with our driver), we went into old town for dinner. 

Is there anything better than European narrow alleys and late night dinners in tiny outdoor restaurants?

The streets in Croatia’s old towns are paved with travertine and worn glossy, smooth!

Turning Back

At 11:00 pm, one hour into our flight over the ocean from jfk to London, our plane turned back because the smell of jet fuel was strong inside the cabin. 

Back on the ground, ents boarded the plane to attend to one of the flight crew, and then we deplaned for the next few hours to wait for another plane. 

Dan had already called and rebooked us on a flight to Paris, never dreaming they’d have another plane at jfk available, but they did and by the time we exited, we wouldn’t make the Paris flight so we switched back. 

Meanwhile we had to find new flights to Croatia since we’d miss our connection. 

When we landed at Heathrow, we hired a car to transfer us to Gatwick where we took a party jet to Split, Croatia and hired another car to drive us the 90 minutes to Zadar and by 11:30 pm Michelle and Brent in the AirBnB. 

Whew! It’s been a long couple of days and I haven’t felt great. But with Dans heroic efforts finding and booking flights and cars, we made it! 

Thera a gorgeous view of the harbor and old city out our window in Zadar, but I was too tired to think and didn’t hold my camera still. 

Happy Birthday to Me. 54!

Happy Birthday to ME!!

54! 

In the words of EC's birthday text after I sent these photos: 

"O to be young and rich and healthy AND happy."

My birthday wish was for

Dan and I to ride up the Hudson River Parkway and cross the George Washington Bridge.

Also, to sleep in and have Hawa acai bowls for breakfast.

But before all that,

Marty, Lizzie and Emi Facetimed to wish me a Happy Birthday!

Facetime is the best.

During breakfast I listened to BOTH of my mom's birthday voicemails.

"I woke up thinking of you and how wonderful you are and only after realized it's your birthday!"

And then I saved them because her voicemails are the best--telling you all the greatest things about you--

those special things need to be saved and remembered.

After our ride, I laid on the couch and read through all my birthday messages.

Birthdays are so fun hearing from your best friends and your family 

and having such a great lovefest all about you.

In the middle of enjoying the texts, Chris called to say Happy Birthday.

I had time for a pedicure and to buy new running shoes.

And then a quick nap before meeting Courtney and Michael for dinner.

And for as good as birthday messages and phone calls are,

having someone say "Happy Birthday" and give you a hug in person is even better!

Now we're heading to the airport to go on a cruise to Croatia with Michelle and Brent

and a bunch of their friends and friends of friends! 

Let the birthday festivities continue!

Outsiders and Only Murders

I biked the Central Park loop twice today and still

feel really cool riding my bike in New York City.

So sad I didn't take a picture.

We went to a matinee today which was fun to look forward to an afternoon show

and a casual hang out evening at home.

The Outsiders. Oh, bringing up all the teenage feelings.

The tale of angst, disparity, friendship, loyalty, division

and family carved on every 80's high schooler teenage heart.

8.5 out of 10 stars.

The music was catchy, moving, soulful. Beautifully performed.

I shed some tears and if I was alone, would have bawled through the whole thing.

A lot of that has to do with touching on the aforementioned themes

that by 50, we're pragmatic about--I'm grateful. I'm blessed. But when those seeds, first planted 

way back as a teenager, now lying dormant, but get sifted about through memories,

whew, I was feeling all the feels. 

Bought the book to take on our trip. Gotta relive the entire story properly.

Spent the evening watching three episodes of Only Murders in the Building

while eating Spiga to Go and marveling that we're living in the Building.

McNeal w/ Robert Downey Jr.

Walk through Central Park today. 

Dan and I started northbound to change it up. 

When he started jogging, I cut east to find a bathroom and ended up looping back 

around to basically where I'd come from.

(At least I found a map so I new I was headed in the right direction.)

The fun part was I passed Dan going the opposite way and we high-fived.

(Did I ever mention the woman I passed on a walk at home last week?

We passed on the bridge behind the Romney's 

and then again looping around by Heidi's new house.

I said, "It feels like we should slap hands."

And she said, "That feels right."

So we did.  I don't know who she is,

but I'm hoping I run into her again. We're destined to be friends.)

After finding a bathroom, I had more gumption to walk a few more miles.

So walked BACK across the park to the Conservatory garden to see what 

progress had been made this summer on the construction.

Not much.

However, it's so fun having a spot to check on progress.

I finished my edits today! 

Hooray!

(And by finished, I mean this round.)

But I've e-mailed back to the proofreader so hopefully when I get back from Croatia she'll have another round. And a new version of the cover might be ready too.

Tonight's show was McNeal--a play--at Lincoln Center starring Robert Downey Jr!

It was impossible to pass up.

Also starring were Andrea Martin and Melora Hardin.

6.5 out of 10 stars. Fantastic acting.

I wouldn't say it's a must-see based on the story.

(A great writer struggles with his son, demons from the past,

and an unhealthy fascination with AI.)

I wasn't terribly moved. 

(Although there was some interesting topics about writers that I identified with...

creating a story vs. co-opting a story. Memory vs. Imagination.

The effects telling our real or imagined stories may have on our children or loved one.) 

But we absolutely loved seeing Robert Downey Jr. act, up close and personal!

The Great Gatsby (and New Clothes)

I was supposed to finish my edits today,

but I also had some shopping to do.

I literally have no exercise shorts or leggings here, except for super ugly,

yet warm and waterproof leggings perfect for winter that I won't wear at home, but are fine for NYC.

However, turns out I don't like to wear ugly outfits in New York either.

 I ended up making a pile of donation clothes--things I'd brought from SLC that I didn't wear anymore

but I still kinda liked the idea of them. 

Is it any surprise I didn't like them any better here?

The stores I wanted to browse were on the Eastside so I combined shopping with exercise

and walked across the park, down to J. Mclaughlin on 72nd & Lex,

Anthropologie on 72nd and 3rd, then up to 86th and 3rd for Athleta and Lululemon.

I would love to have other stores that I love to shop at in New York.

(Remember when it was special to go to NYC and shop at H&M and Zara?!)

But I just stick with the oldies but goodies. 

Came home with two new dresses, leggings for exercise, shorts and some long sleeve casual shirts.

(They're actually sweatshirts, but I'm really hoping they give a nicer vibe than that.)

We have three shows lined up for this trip, which we're both excited about.

First, dinner at a new pizza shop--Mimi's--across the street (87th and Broadway).

Great slices, garlic knots just okay. Tomato dipping sauce a little tart.

We'll be back for the pizza.

The Great Gatsby gets 7 out of 10 stars.

Costumes, story, acting, and dance numbers all great.

In fact, one of the dancers had body language/mood that reminded me of Donna Murphy.

Loved that.

The songs were good, but not catchy.

Fun to see. Glad we did. We want to reread the book.

(F. Scott Fitzgerald and The Great Gatsby were my favorite in high school.

I can't remember why and now I want to try to rediscover what drew me to him.

The in your face materialism combined with tragedy? 

Because the plot and not tying up in a bow felt edgy? Probably.) 

Climbing in bed as soon as we're home to try to adjust forward 

a few hours this week before going to Europe.

Back to the City

We arrived in NYC last night and met Michael and Courtney for dinner. 

I'd worked in my book edits from the proofreader the whole flight

and thankfully, after we got home for dinner and at only 11:00 p.m. eastern,

I was exhausted and ready for bed. 

We're trying to adapt to an earlier bedtime to prep for the European time change 

and our cruise through Croatia!

This morning we walked through Central Park where there was not just one, 

but TWO road races happening. One at the upper end of the park and one at the lower.

A marching band was playing to cheer on the racers and I could just imagine

my mom's enthusiasm and sheer joy at the awesome energy if she were here.

I think if I ran with a marching band, I could run a lot farther than three minutes.

Courtney and I walked to church together early for a RS linger longer.

It's so nice to have a minute to sit in the beautiful courtyard of the Belnord.

We love our apartment here!

After church we had a late lunch then watched the Cowboys game.

After years (over 30) of loving Cowboy football and trying to make time for a

game, but it never panning out, Dan is going to not one, but TWO

games this season! They're playing in New Jersey the week we get home from the cruise, 

so we're staying extra days to go.

And in October, Dan's finally taking the boys to Cowboys Stadium!

(Sorry, Nick! He just smiled and said,

the other boys missed out on things and now its my turn.

And wasn't disappointed at all.)

***

Also, Jenny's mom passed away last night.

I'm so sad to miss the funeral, but so happy I got to see her before I left.

 

Examples of Strength

 We love talking to Nick on Fridays.

He's so happy and has really had a fun time in the MTC.

And now he's on the countdown because he heads to Ecuador on Wednesday!

He'll really miss his district. They've become great friends in a few short weeks.

But he's so excited to get his mission, 

find out his area, meet his new companion and be immersed in Spanish.

Chris reminisced the day he arrived in his new area and how excited he was to be there,

but feeling a little lonely too.

He told Nick that if he feels lonely, 

to remember his brother felt the same way and it won't last long.

Nick agreed and also said it's his turn to experience what his two older brothers did.

It's a rite of passage, he said.

So proud of his optimism.

And so grateful for the examples of his older brothers, dad

and sister and brother-in-law!

Saying Goodbye

 Wednesday, while out on my bike ride, I passed Rick Curtis who was on a walk.
What a tender mercy to get to stop and chat for a few minutes and tell him

 how much I loved him and Annette and was so sorry to hear that she wasn't well.

He was so sweet and said how much they loved me.

I so wished I could follow him home and give Annette a hug.

But I didn't want to intrude.

He called Jen and told her he'd seen me. 

Jen invited me to come over the next day while she'd be there helping.

When I rang the bell, her dad answered and said I wasn't supposed to ring but just walk in.

Ha, ha. But that was the back door, I said.

Do you have a place that you went every single day of your jr high and high school life

that you just walked in the back door? 

I had two homes.

I went upstairs and found Jenny in her room. Just like the old days.

We went into Annette's room and gave hugs and shared memories.

Singing along to her favorites that became our favorites.

All the yummy treats.

Snacking on saltines and BBQ sauce while watching Days of our Lives.

Me running through the back yard toward their house and someone in the family

saying, "Here comes Angela."

She encouraged me to sit on the bed next to her.

Pretty soon Jen was showing pictures on her phone,

so I leaned over to see them too and Annette put her hand on my arm and

I put my hand on hers. And she had such soft, soft skin, it reminded me of Grandma Regan.

Skin on skin creates such a visceral experience -- more easily etched on memory.

My dad had a visiting capacity of about ten minutes before he passed

so I tried to be cognizant of not staying too long. I said goodbye and 

Annette and I hugged one more time before Jenny tucked her back under the covers to sleep.

As we walked down the hall, Jenny and I remembered working in the computer nook 

and that Annette always had everything you needed for any project.

I haven't been in their home since college. 

Decor has been changed and an addition made, 

but every single room still held memories. And love.

(And the family room closet is still full of VHS movies and puzzles!)

What fun we had together -- we did lots of homework too.

And listened to music and talked about dreams and ambition and crushes and heartbreak.

And here we were again, 35 years later, going through the worst heartbreak.

Oh, I've been here before, my friend. I know how much it tears you apart

to say goodbye to one of the two most important people in your world.

It seems impossible to be put in that position.

I'd walked to their home instead of driving over so I could get my exercise.

But also so I could walk home afterward and have time with my thoughts.

I was so grateful to be able to give Jenny's mom a hug and tell her I loved her one more time.

Later, Jen sent a picture.

She'd been moving a chair in the room and an Anne Murray tape was under it.

Just a little reminder of those years driving in the van singing along 

to Anne Murray, Dan Fogelberg, John Denver.

Today on my bike ride I listened to Dan Fogelberg and cried.

I can't bear listening to Anne Murray yet, but it's playing non-stop in my mind.

Aug & Sept Birthdays

The Salt Lake branch of our family (ha!) celebrated 

the August and September birthdays at Bartolo's.

(The Utah county branch celebrated last week.)

Birthday candles go to almost half our group:

August: Katie, Dan & Marge

September: Michael, Angela & Jacob

I always felt really special to be the only girl in our family with brown hair.

Matched with Michael who also had brown hair and we shared a September birthday month.

It's so cute what small things make little kids feel special.

Marge and Grandma with lots of the grandkids: Charlie, Jacob, Gavin and Christopher

Thriving

This plant has thrived in the hot hot summer sun!

Last year I bought a very expensive ivy to go in this outdoor pot.

But I never remembered to water it, and it died almost immediately.

(And there it sat, dried up and dead for the rest of the summer because I couldn't be bothered to dig it up and throw it out either. In some things I'm lazy, and I don't know why.)

So this year I had no business sending one of my favorite indoor plants outside,

except that when our plant lady (Tina) brought a replacement for an indoor plant,

she brought two, so with an extra, I was willing to risk it.

I've been very good about watering a couple times a week, but I've also been out of town for several weeks in a row and yet even without constant care, it continues living as happy as ever! 

It's a dream plant!

Speaking of happy plants, this container was nearly dead 

when we discovered we had some water issues a month ago.

Our landscaper gave it some fertilizer, and thanks to only slightly cooler temperatures,

it's filled out, reproducing and now its stunning.

Some of my favorite fall flowers are starting to bloom.

They're beautiful, but I'm not ready to embrace fall yet.

***

We have a trip to Croatia coming up which I hear from everyone that's been there

that it's their favorite destination ever. 

We're not only excited for the clear water, gorgeous sunsets, gelato and charming old towns,

but for a trip that we've had to do very little planning or choosing activities.

That being said, I was creating our simple itinerary yesterday and considering my packing list

 and complained to Dan about our flight's early arrival from NYC to Heathrow.

He told me I was wrong, our flight was much later. We made a bet. And guess what?

When we checked our Delta app, WE WERE ON DIFFERENT FLIGHTS!

Fortunately if you're Delta 360*, customer service is very helpful

and they changed my flight to match Dan's and didn't charge us extra.

WHEW!